Monday, October 25, 2010

McCall's jacket and what I did this morning

McCall's 5276 View B is coming along and it is a pleasure to sew slowly, after completing 11 garments this month.  Here's the pattern envelope if you missed it last week:
I have everything cut out, the inverted pleat in, and the back attached to the front.  Cutting a size 10 seems to be working so far.  Carolyn, of Handmade by Carolyn, made a muslin some time back and warned me the pattern runs quite large.  I trust her judgment and am keeping my fingers crossed as to the overall look when this is done.  My first "try on" was positive, and I think I will only need to take in the side seams a smidge (official sewing term), and the armholes in by 1/2 inch or so.  I won't alter the armholes until pinning in the sleeves to see what they might look like.  The model in the picture has sloping shoulders, I believe, and I want to see what happens on my particular body. 

This morning I added silk bias strips to the pleat seams.  I used an old tie which I had snagged just for this purpose.  Here is a closeup of the bias binding pattern. 

My lambswool flannel is lightweight and I want the pleat to hang straight to my body.  To help with this, I left the seam allowances untrimmed, and folded the bias binding over the entire 5/8 inch.  Isn't the "wrong" side of the tie pretty?  I wanted to use it but didn't want to take the time to unpick the little seams and re-sew. 

Here is what the inverted pleat looks like on the inside of the jacket.

In other news, we had a butt kicker of a rainstorm yesterday and snow last night.  I am cozy in my house but must go out to the barn and ride Woodrow.  I'd like to stay warm in my sewing room, but the Woodster was higher than a kite yesterday because of being kept in his stall.  Those of you with children can relate-except mine is 1000 lbs.  Cowgirl up!


  1. That silk tie bias tape looks so pretty. A nice detail to look at whenever you don the coat! This is shaping up to be just beautiful. I can't wait to see the final result; although you are so right about sewing slow and appreciating the process.
    I hope you enjoyed your ride!

  2. Great idea with the tie - my sister remakes them into cuffs so she's always searching for nice ones! You have a lot more patience than I do... it's probably sewing sacrilege but a lot of the time if stuff doesn't get seen, I don't spend time making it look as nice as this!!

  3. Love your source for bias tape! I'll have to keep that idea in mind.

  4. Your coat looks amazing so far, love the bias and I also need to keep that source in mind.

  5. What a great idea for pretty bias binding. I can't wait to see your finished coat. The colours are divine!


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