Monday, February 15, 2016

The Quincy jacket-some thoughts on patternmaking

I finished the Quincy jacket and I like it.  As sewn, it is casual, easy to wear, and sporty.  However, it is NOT what I thought it would be.  Here, let me show you what I saw when I looked at the fashion drawing:

I see a trim jacket with some ease for movement, a horizontal seam under her arm which is almost an empire seam, and some vertical seaming which are close to princess seams.  The collar looks oversized on her left side but not the right, and the sleeves look as though they are straight sleeves.  

Now look at the line drawing...carefully.  The horizontal seam is quite near the bottom of the sleeve, the vertical seams look to be close to the shoulders, the neckline appears cicular rather than oval, and the sleeves are quite wide.  Also, the proportions of the top of the jacket to the bottom is about 1:1 in the line drawing, but not in the illustration.

I got snookered and it's not the first time.  It's okay; I actually expect to be surprised sometimes, and if I venture into Sewing Workshop land, I am just pleased that the garment is not too voluminous.  

I brought my jacket to my sewing group today, and shared my thoughts.  We all agreed I could go down one size, and with extensive alterations, make this to be more fitted.  But, as an experiment, many tried on the jacket.  While it fit most everyone somewhat, the vertical seams were always outside the bust area and the overall silhouette was almost a swing coat.  You can see that in the line drawing.  

We agree that there is a certain set of designers who work this tpye of pattern well, and it sells because the sleeves and armscyse are manipulated or even absent, thus ensuring a broader range of fit.  This realization helps me see why I like SW patterns for their design, and find them so darn hard to fit my small shoulders and bust.  


 You'll see this pattern again, and before I leave, please note the awesome job of pattern matching and motif placement, even though this was my wearable muslin!

26 comments:

  1. Awesome pattern matching and motif noted!

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  2. What a shame. It is just too big overall and boxy for your little frame. Fabric is great and pattern matching flawless!

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    1. I am the best dressed rider at the barn :-)

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  3. Interesting. Their patterns are so pricey, I simply haven't bought them. However, Hot Patterns lives in the same fantasy land. Gritting teeth.

    I love this fabric and know you used a neat zipper. Disappointment. From out here, it looks a little boxy in the upper back, sleeve is very wide at bottom. But seems to fit well in the torso.

    Nice print match-up!

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    1. It IS boxy-I have analyzed it further and it is composed of rectangles.

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  4. Great pattern matching. For those of us with smaller bones and shoulders it's always a guess if something will fit

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    1. I am going to try 2 sizes down and some shirting, rather than a linen. Wish me luck.

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  5. Your pattern matching is super ! What is your sewing group ? A clothing group or ? Thanks

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    1. oh, a garment sewing group which a friend and I started in Tucson. Great fun and inspiration.

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    2. Your 90 miles too far away 😍😍😍

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  6. That's why I gave up on Sewing Workshop patterns. If I'm going to spend about $40 on a pattern (Canadian here!), I need for the envelope drawing and the actual pattern to have a closer relationship to each other.

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  7. I am going through my pattern collection and while I love SW illustrations I have yet to "love" my final results. I'll keep trying but your experience is so familiar...small shoulders, sloping on me like the dickens. I sew this one and thought like you that might be a princess seam but I have been fooled before by lines that were merely toptitching. I'm thinking maybe the Liberty shirt got me on that one. Kudos on that pattern matching, however, so does make it a very wearable mock up.

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    1. Hi Jane, yes to the shoulder issue. I love, absolutely love, slouchy beach clothing and it never really works on me. The Liberty shirt does, but I altered the heck out of the shoulders and they still hung low.

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  8. Even if a bit oversize, it is a really pretty jacket and looks great on you.

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  9. Fabulous pattern matching and I love the fabric, but agree with you that it doesn't quite work on you, particularly the sleeves. Good luck with the next one. I have the Liberty shirt pattern, which came with a Craftsy class and have been reluctant to try it after seeing some reviews. However, I am taller and wider with swimmer's/golfer's shoulders so my issues wouldn't be the same.

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    1. The Liberty shirt is a fun sew and I like the look of it.

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  10. Interesting discussion. I get some feedback from a friend but she lives over an hour away. I have found items that look good on me in RTW worth the time to copy and draft a pattern instead of relying on just sewing patterns. This 'garment group' is going on my list of things to find or start locally for when I get out of my current job.
    Absolutely stunning print matching. One cannot tell if there is a seam there. lol The next one will fit fabulously.

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  11. Oh what a fab job of matching the print Mary and I like the jacket on you a lot. I've made a few of these for myself and for my mother but while they call it a top I have always felt it was more a jacket. Maybe it's the zipper? And the lack of pockets annoys me. They can be added though..... :-)

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    1. I am going for Quincy #2 and plan to pick up a solid colored cotton or linen today. Thanks for the compliment on the matching :-)

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  12. Great pattern matching. I thought this would work on you, but the shape is somehow not fulfilling its promises.

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    1. Hi jay, yes, and one of the issues is too much volume in the sleeves. So, stay tuned for version #2

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  13. What a shame, Mary! But, I hear, you, many of the SW patterns don't quite work with my busty/narrow hipped shape.

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